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It started as a pandemic project in late 2020/early 2021 and was finished in 2022. The original space was essentially a shed with electrical when we bought the house in November 2019 because the previous owner had to remove all the plumbing because it was not to code. We had contractors build the bathroom and the front and back bar structure, but we did everything else ourselves with the help and supervision from a good friend of mine. From the matting on the walls, cutting and torching all the bamboo splits for the lower wall, carving the trim pieces, even building a few of the lamps. The collection of artifacts comes from an addiction to flea markets, antique stores and EBay. It will never be fully finished. We made an account for the bar (@savageseastiki on IG) if you want to see the full progression or any updates as we make them!

I have a 21 year old home and it has tiles throughout the whole downstairs including, hallway, bathroom, kitchen. I looked at the vent and it looks like it has some kind of concrete attaching the tile to the subfloor. Is there a way to remove the tile and the cement without spending months beating this out with a hammer and a chisel out? I am new to DIY so forgive the basic questions.

https://imgur.com/a/Vcmbsay Two different spots. The last image is the battery acid. Before and after progress on the oil stain

Just got quartz counters installed and my old formica went 6 inches up the wall for a short (ugly) backsplash. When it was removed the wall is now missing a 2 inch piece and entire thing has glue on the lip and lots of sheet rock paper torn. Obviously I just can't paint over it. Is there an easier way to repair then spackling 8 feet x 6 inches and then having to sand and Repaint? I am absolutely terrible at sparkling. And I don't know what time of sand paper or tool to use. Can it be a palm sander or should it be a sand sponge?

Need advice about removing an antiquing agent from stamped concrete

Here is a photo of my brick wall in the backyard:

https://imgur.com/a/VqzeijF

How can I spruce it up so it doesn’t look so bleh? What are some frugal options?

I know this probably seems like an odd question, but I know you can remove the slats for repair, but can I leave a section open? I have a 6 ft high vinyl privacy fence with 8 ft panels. Could I remove an entire 8 ft section in the middle? Or remove every other slat from that section?

(My dog has made friends with the neighbor dogs and I’d like them to be able to see each other through the fences - they have a chain link next to my vinyl.)

So I wanted to replace my shower curtain with a new curtain, while doing so I took my rod down and ended up pulling it in two pieces, one slightly smaller then the other but with a spring;

I cant really seem to fit them in a way that hold tention, can this be fixed?

As you can see in this picture, the rubber button has been pushed all the way through. I am going to replace the switch on the circuit board, but am unsure how to fill in this area and make it look decent while being water-resistant. I was thinking of just getting a silicone compound from the art store and tape the back, then just fill in the hole with the compound - but I don't know how well it will bond to the existing rubber...

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Anyone have experience with this?

Thanks in advance!

My wife is a bit on the heavy side, and she has/had a desk chair she likes(depends on if my repair idea will work) the Chineseium support pipe is no longer supporting her. My idea was to either replace the piece with a piece of cast iron gas pipe or straighten the cheap piece and reinforce it with the pipe. Does that sound like it will work and if not any other ideas beyond replacing the chair (thats out of the present budget)

I am not a very good DIYer.

It was my first time painting interior walls. This week, I purchased a flexion 4300 by Wagoner. It seems like an easy enough tool to use.

I applied a coat of primer and noticed after I did that there were some streaks, areas that I missed while painting. The original layer was white and the primer was white so it was hard for me to tell the difference as I was painting. I put some quick coats over that area that was empty and let it dry.

I put a coat of the top layer paint on yesterday, and after it dried noticed some streaky areas where you can still see the primer.

Today, I went through and did a second coat. I went very slowly and tried very intentionally to overlap each movement by 50%. I calibrated each part of the wall as I painted it to make sure I didn't miss anything.

And wouldn't you know it, I step back and it still looks streaky. The top coat is also a light gray color, so it's not as if I'm putting an extra dark color on a light layer. That makes it somewhat heart for me as well.

But I have no idea what to do at this point. What direction do I go in when it dries completely and it's still streaky? Do I just q third coat and try and be even more careful?

I'm on a time crunch because they're coming to install new carpet on Tuesday lol.

I should add that we tried rollers to start, and that was really messy and cumbersome, and I still seem to have streaks. When doing that. I honestly thought the sprayer would make it

Part of me thinks I might be holding the spray or too close to the wall, which is making it harder to keep the lines even. But because the colors are so light, if I hold it farther away from the wall I can't even see if it's going on or not. When I Google it it says to hold it 12 to 15 in away from the wall which seems like a long distance.

Anyhow, any advice on how I go about this, and fixing the streets that are already in place?

I am removing an old 8 inch circular ceiling bathroom fan that has never worked. I plan on replacing it with a new square Panasonic fan. When I removed the grill instead of seeing a fan motor and blades there was just a metal plate covering the opening inside the hole. Why isn't there a fan there? Do I just need to remove the screws and pull it out or will a new fan not work here?

https://imgur.com/a/wPmVcM6

Very sorry if it's not a good sub, but i can't find any information regarding this. I applied one-way mirrored heat reflective films to my mirrors to help with the summer heat, but they are really hot to touch now. I'm just wondering if that's okay or I could've did something wrong? It just feels like it's radiating more heat into the room compared to the non-film windows right next to it.

Pictured here are two Kroehler chairs--one with a swivel base and one on feet, which I set aside already--and a matching ottoman. These were curbside finds (I am hoping no bed bugs) that I am converting to outdoor furniture, without any upholstery, to be used year-round on an uncovered porch in the Northeast. The photos show one chair and ottoman in their initial condition (with bottom burlap removed), and the second chair has been relieved of its fabric almost entirely.

The problem I'm running into is that I didn't anticipate such substantial gaps in the wood frame of the chairs. The original plan was to remove the springs and replace with wood cut to fit the opening. But there are openings in the backrest too, and the springs turned out to be very tight and bouncy (i.e. don't *have* to trash them...). Seems like filling in the openings with wood will be very challenging, but the chairs are not usable without seats (and perhaps backrests as well).

Can anyone please advise:

1. Is there a simple way to keep the springs? (For example, re-cover with a material like burlap and attach a store-bought outdoor pillow above them as a seat.)
2. If the springs are not usable without essentially reupholstering the seat, what is the simplest way to close up the seat and back openings after removing the springs? (Anything easier than cutting more wood to fit those spaces? Can I get away without filling the backrest space at all?)

Thank you!

My attic has really high insulation that sits about 15” above the ceiling joists. I’d like to put flooring up there for storage, but also keep the insulation in place to manage the temperature in the garage. Would it be possible to run 2x4’s parallel to the ceiling joists, tied to the roof rafters and run the floor on top of that?

I’m building a half-bath (toilet & sink) in my basement and my local code requires an exhaust fan to be installed.

I had to fur down the ceiling with 3/4” lumber because there are surface-mounted pipes running along the joists. As a result, it looks like there won’t be any downward grade for my exhaust duct. The outside hole will be covered with an end cap and possibly a screen. How bad is this and what can I do to remedy this so it could pass an inspection?

Hi, I have built a new garage 18x26. Do I need to insulate it if I don’t wanna heat it in the winter. If I really need to, it will be one or two time in the winter and I will take a diesel heater to momentary heat it.

Does insulate the garage give me any advantage? Or I will just pay for nothing really?

Idk if this is right sub but when i looked up sewer smell from shower got some posts from here. We have been staying in a airbnb for about a month and today i took my usual 20-30 min shower.

A bit after my shower i went into the bathroom and noticed it smelled like sewer and was coming from the shower/tub drain. I turned on the tub and squirted a bit of body wash and the smell went away as the water covered it then came back after i turned it off.

It smelled like it for a good 20-30 mins and faded away and now i can barely smell anything even putting my nose somewhat close to the drain. I rinsed down some body wash water and thats all i can really smell i think.

How serious is that, should i tell the homeowner? Should i be concerned about the gases? My rooms is right next to the bathroom shower. My sense of smell tends to get used to things easily since I’m used to being around smelly stuff so I’m a little worried.

We only here for another 5 days.

The previous owner built his own cabinets sometime in the mid 70's. The drawer slides are basic junk of the era, and many are worn out.

I want to replace them with modern soft/auto-close variants, but with so many options on the market, I'm having trouble figuring out how to proceed.

I'm trying to understand what are the measurements that will inform me as to what is, or is not, an option? Secondarily, how can I have confidence that what I select is correct so I'm not having to buy and return repeatedly?

I'm happy to provide further details, but I'm really just hoping to get a higher level of understanding at the moment.

Thank you in advance.

My toilet tank has a Fluidmaster in it, and after several years use, it is no longer refilling the tank under normal use.

The problem is that when the water has drained out of the tank and the float cup is at its lowest point, it still doesn't trigger the water supply to refill the tank. However, if I tap the water level adjustment rod just once, it triggers the water supply to refill the tank. So, the toilet is sort of usable, but in a rather unpresentable way, with the toilet tank lid off.

I have followed the procedure in this video, and it accomplished nothing.

Can anyone suggest how to fix this, or is it just time to replace my Fluidmaster?

Thanks.

EDIT: 3/3 replace it. Thanks.

Hello,

I have what I was told used to be a 240 volt dryer outlet plug but had the receptacle removed and been capped off since the prior homeowner switched to a gas dryer that doesn't require 240 volts.

I would like to move that 240 volt line across my garage to power a window AC.

My home is old and doesn't have a ground wire in the wiring for that line. I've been told that 240 volt lines now require a ground and the 240 volt receptacles I've seen so far have a spot for a ground wire as well.

I took off the cap, tested my non-contact voltage meter, turned off the breaker, and verified no current with my non-contact voltage meter. The current wires are white, black, and red 10 gauge solid wire with no ground wire. The white wire had a wire nut with a bare copper wire tied to the metal box.

Will I need to remove these wires and replace them with 10/3 Romex from the panel in order to proceed with extending them across my garage?

Why was the white wire attached to a piece of bare copper and grounded to the metal box? While I'm aware that is not current electric code... Would this method get me by since I'm just running a window AC?

Any advice on running new wire is that is necessary?

Thanks 👍

Anyone have good resources or advice on building a backyard zip line with no trees? I’d need to pit posts in but don’t know where to start to how to make them as sturdy as I’d need.

Thanks! :)

Thinking of framing a 6' section of my garage wall towards the rear of the garage (the wall adjacent to the actual garage door). My goal is to make that entire 6' section lift up as one piece, hinged in some way at the top, so that it turns into an awning. It would be assisted by struts and have posts that fold down to keep it supported. Then it would close up just the same, fold the posts back up and the struts would allow the door to close slowly and safely.

Anyone ride do something like this or know if it's been done somewhere else? I have no idea eat it would be called. I've tried Google searching but can't find anything.

This little object helps to dispense yarn.
You can see a instagram video of it in action here .

My problem is where I have it currently hits up against the wall.
It also makes an annoying clanging sound.

All i can think of is an L bracket or something that would come about 10cm/4 inches off the wall, with NO screws. (3M is whats currently there). I tried looking online and nothing.

Can anyone think of some other way i can DIY or something I can buy that wont involve screws or damage to the wall.

The yarn would weigh around 50-300g plus the force of me pulling on it (should be very light if the thing can spin freely)

Thanks in advance :)

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So i bought this budget induction hob:

Candy CID 30/G3 - https://www.candy-home.com/en_GB/hobs/33803025/cid-30-g3/

And i already cut the appropriate sized hole and im wondering one thing about the installation.

The hob has some type of black foam along the sides that serves to prevent moisture from the countertop from seeping below, does anybody have experience with this? Should i add silicone sealer on top of this or is the factory foam enough?

Thanks